Gare de Lyon – La salle des fresques · June 19th, 2008
Spanning above the original row of ticket booths in the Gare de Lyon, La Grande Fresque is a remarquable ode to train travel and early tourism that doesn’t get much notice, hidden by pillars and faded away by time. The fresco was probably painted at around the same time as the newly built station (1900s); I suppose it must have been commissioned as a kind of gigantic tourist brochure of the time, an advertisement for the train company operating the station, or as a visual guide to the attractions encountered along the journey, holding promises of blue skies, idealised and picturesque towns and countryside of meridional France.
The fresco is composed of 17 postcard-like panels, each representing a region traversed by the PLM (Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée) on its way to Italy. Albeit it forms a continous strip of land, the landscape has been condensed and stitched around the cities passed-by on the journey, and distances have been shortened between each point of interest. Each town or region is represented or characterised by a recognisable building or architectural style featuring prominently in the middle of each panel – to dissipate any ambiguity, their names have even been placed in a cartouche topping the painting. The linear nature of the painting has pushed some odd shifts into the geography of the places it purports to represent, such as Montpellier featuring between Nimes and Marseille [which, funnily enough, is also a feature of the 3D environment I developed for Memory / Territory], or the same sea coast apparearing on both sides of the land.
Beyond the actual representation of the landscape, I find this fresco interesting because it also encapsulates quite rightly the collective imaginary and evocations that are often associated with these places, built through direct or indirect experience, encompassing a rich, sometimes naive assortment of elements, including Architecture, topography, local myths or other personal and imperceptible affects. Symbolically, the fresco can be read like Matthew Paris’ Itinerary Map, a roadmap depicting stage points along the journey to the Holy Land – train travel being here the vehicle of contemplative ascent; but literally, the painting also transports the passer-by as if he were sitting through the train journey, watching the landscape scrolling through the window as he walks by.
Histoire de la Gare de Lyon [french]
Crédit photos Jean-Paul Foitet. http://www.lesgares.com/
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